![]() ![]() If you are using a two-stage patching plaster, you may be able to sponge on a small amount of water to gain added working time for further smoothing. Some plasters set quickly, so don’t delay in feathering the plaster surface flush to the surrounding surface. After the plaster has set thoroughly, apply a second coat, using a wider knife or trowel, preferably one wide enough to sweep over the entire width of the patch. ![]() Some shrinkage and cracking is likely, especially in large patches. Let the newly applied patch set overnight. Use a small filler knife, and bring the plaster just shy of the surrounding finish plaster. Fill the edges of the hole with plaster, covering the tape or screening. If you are patching a larger void, a two-coat approach is probably best. Most commercial patching plasters require a thorough wetting of the surrounding plasterwork, though some do not (read and follow the instructions to be certain). The strips should be large enough to extend approximately 2cms beyond the hole. Repeat, building plaster layers until your patch sits level with the wall. Once the hole is clean, apply several strips of jointing tape to cover the hole. Apply a 1cm thick layer of plaster of Paris to the lath boards or the existing plaster, and allow to dry for at least 10 minutes. You may need to dig at the existing plaster to ensure your patch will sit flat. ![]() You may pay as little as 50 or as much as 80 per square foot. For large holes, you may wish to use a sheet of aluminum or galvanized screening. For a plaster wall, trim a piece of plasterboard to fit the hole. Repairing nail holes in plaster walls costs an average of 65 per square foot. This will help bond the old and new together. If the hole is deeper, apply a base coat of plaster in the hole to within 1/8 inch of the surface. If the hole is less than 1/8 inch deep, one coat should be enough for good coverage. STEP 2: Reinforce the patchĪt the joint between the existing wall and the new patch, apply self- adhesive fiberglass mesh tape. Mix patching plaster according to the manufacturer's instructions. If necessary, add wooden nailing surfaces at the edge of the wallboard patch to be certain it remains flat and stable. Replace damp or molding wallboard that sags. Then measure the hole and cut a piece of plaster. When working directly on a masonry surface, use a club hammer and cold chisel rake out the joints to a depth of a quarter inch so that the plaster can form “keys” in the joints, adding strength to the new surface. Secure the baton to the back of the wall with two plaster screws on either side of the hole as shown in Pic 2. Another good approach is to try patching first. Prime and then touch up the wall with paint. ![]()
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